Tonight, this Saturday night of nights into Sunday morning.. this night of every year, I recall, deep at the heart of me, that I love my country. This Carnival Saturday, the night of the big Panorama competition, I listen to the live radio broadcast from Trinidad and I forget all my bitterness, hatred and resentment, and become that child, that sunchild of the 70s with the smart father and the beautiful mother, leading a dappled life...
How to describe to an American the phenomena of the steelpan, the only musical instrument to be created in the 20th century? Born of strife, created essentially from discarded materials (abandoned oil drums) it has evolved into an amazing manifestation of a people's will. The steelpan can play the classics or hip-hop: played by one musician, it is sweet, melodic. But on this night, this Saturday night, played by armies of 100, 200 musicians, untrained amateurs who have been taught to play by ear (no one reads music but the arranger!) it is like the blast from an angel's horn. The bands assemble for battle at a centuries old raceground, the Queens Park Savannah. The night is cool, the air electric with anticipation. For me, there is a comfort to this yearly ritual. The pilgrimage to the stands, the cameraderie within them (friendships forged of one night's duration), the serious, avid discussion/disagreement on the merits of one band over another. The bond with my mother- this Saturday was always our day to spend together: first the morning at Kiddies' Carnival, then a quick change and a walk, arm in arm in the twilight, to the Savannah...Then there is the ovation as the most popular bands and their exultant supporters take the stage, the particular respect shown to certain bands of long vintage- the Desperadoes, the Renegades, the Starlift, the Phase 2 Pan Groove, The AllStars, with all of the audience standing in greeting as they push their instruments on stage. The AllStars have just performed, and I am weak in admiration for their prowess, in tears that I wasn't there, screaming with the rest at every note, every trill, every "bom bom bom" of the bass section, jumping and dancing in pace with the enthusiastic players. I think, when I hear a performance like that, that this Trinidad must be the most wonderful place in the world. That a band, which only truly comes together once a year, composed of doctors, laborers, executives, farmers, devout Christians, practicing Muslims, and even foreigners, all people, any people could execute with such precision. It is a triumph of egalitarian will. I look at what is achieved at this time of year, and think, wow, we Trinis can do anything. Then Ash Wesnesday hits, the Carnival is over, and the magic subsides into a quagmire of corruption, inertia, crime, deceit... and I start raining mental blows down on "them" again.
Until next year, on this Saturday night.